Today was Mauni Amavasya, the day for the Maha Snana at the Ardha Kumbha Mela
at Prayaga, the place where Ganga, Yamuna, and Sarasvati join together. The
Sangam itself is an impressive sight even on an ordinary day. Two huge and
powerful rivers join together, the Ganga flowing in from the left with very
light colored waters and the Yamuna flowing from the left with dark colored
waters. At the point they join you can see these two different colored waters
mixing together.
The Sarasvati, of course, is not seen nowadays and there are many opinions
regarding this. Some say that she flows underneath the ground, some say that as
we say at Mayapur, the Ganga flows on one side and Yamuna on the other, in the
same way, Sarasvati joined Alakananda at Badrinatha and then flows into the
Ganga, she’s flowing on one side of Ganga.
Another opinion is that the Sarasvati is the river of Sadhus with their great
learning coming down to the Sangam to take their holy bath in the divine
waters. Today that river was visible as tens of thousands of sadhus came to
take their bath in the Shahi Snana, Royal Bath, on the most auspicious of all
the bathing days at Ardha Kumbha Mela. Among them were thousands of naked
sadhus displaying their renunciation by walking barefoot in the very cold
morning with no other dress than the ten directions.
Since in Ujjain Kumbha Mela in 2004, Lokanatha Swami became a Sri Mahant of the
International Society for Krishna Consciousness Prabhupada Khalsa, we now have
our official place in the Shahi Snanas. By some quirk of traffic we were unable
to reach our place at the end of the procession, but had to wait on the side of
the road where our procession would start to take our place once they started.
This road happened to be where all the processions returning from taking their
bath would pass.
First we watched the Niranjini Akhara shivite sadhus returning. Although we
were are bundled up in our sweaters and chadars, we saw a river of dark naked
sadhus, some with huge piles of hair on their heads, some with matted locks
almost dragging in the cold sand, some with tridents or swords. Then followed
the the mahants riding on their silver thrones mounted on trucks or jeeps
surrounded by their followers. Unfortunately the authorities don’t allow them
to go on elephants as I saw in the 1989 Kumbha Mela out of fear that an enraged
pachyderm may trample some pilgrims. So they have ruined the glorius pageantry
of the Royal Snana.
Then there was a long gap. Then suddenly police mounted on beautiful strong
horses arrived clearing everyone from the roads as the most feared Juna Akhara
shivite sadhus came. They had a very long procession of naked sadhus, some
smeared with the sacred sands of the Sangam again followed by all the mahants
riding on their ornate silver thrones.
Now the Vaishnava sadhu procession was to begin. Although in previous melas,
the authorities had prohibited the elephants and had even told us not to take
our bulls, today we took the chance to bring them. The ladies had spent all the
previous day stringing garlands of yellow and orange marigolds which now
gracefully decorated the Deity cart. As the Vaishnavas began to pass, we hooked
our bulls to the cart and everyone was amazed to see their long curving horns.
The bulls were also sporting garlands on their horns and around their heads. In
the excitement, the kirtan began to pick up. As all the Vaishnava Mahants
passed on their silver thrones, they smiled and blessed us seeing the
enthusiastic kirtan of the Holy Names.
Although on the Makara Sankranti Snana, Lokantha Maharaja was with us, he had
left for Mayapur to give special seminars. So today with us we had Radha
Govinda Maharaja, Vedavyasa Priya Maharaja, and Radharaman Maharaja. All the
pilgrims, police, and everyone was amazed to see our ornate padayatra cart with
Sri Sri Gaura Nitai bestowing their blessings on all with Srila Prabhupada
gloriously sitting in the front, the captain of the ship to cross over the
dangerous river of Kali. Devotees were dancing and spinning around in ecstasy.
I was totally amazed how not one of the big police officials objected to our
extraordinary bulls, but all waved and made pranams to Guru and Gauranga.
Finally we reached to the Sangam and were told we have five minutes to complete
our bath. The cart now became decorated and surrounded with piles of all the
devotees’s cloth. Everyone raced to the Sangam and carefully dipped into the
freezing waters of the Holy Sangam. Ganga Maiya ki jaya, Yamuna Maiya ki jaya
rent the air as we bathed with all the Vaishnavas. It was so ecstatic, an
experience no one will ever forget, feeling invigorated by the sacred waters of
Ganga and Yamuna.
After the bath, our bodies were tingling and it felt like our hearts were
shining like the sun. We raced back to our Sri Sri Gaura Nitai and Srila
Prabhupada. Then we sprinkled water from the Sangam on Srila Prabhupada. We
even sprinkled some on those fortunate bulls who were able to pull him to the
Triveni Sangam. We quickly dressed and manouvered the bulls to take our place
in the return possession.
With all the devotees feeling the ecstacy bestowed on us by Ganga and Yamuna,
the kirtan went wild. Devotees jumping, spinning, and dancing. There was a
little less barricading on the return path, so many devotees were able to get
close to the crowds lining the route to distribute Srila Prabhupada’s books.
Thus we made our triumphant way back to our camp.
We all then went to take prasadam cooked by Mayapur Nama Hatta devotees all
with kanthi mala and tilaka. All the devotees are praising the prasadam. Then
the grand distribution of prasad to the public began with nice full meals of
hot prasadam cooked with pure ghee. We hope by the end of the day to feed 5,000
hungry pilgrims.
The pilgrims have been streaming through our Krishna Lila diaoramas all day.
Even at 3 AM when I awoke, I saw so many pilgrims passing throught the
exhibits. The Delhi devotees have been very enthusiatically distributing books
every day. Practically our stock is finished. Our Harer Nama with the Padayatra
cart has been ecstatic every day, with the crowds most enthusiastically
appreciating the kirtan. This is the most receptive crowd in the world for
Nagar Sankirtan. Vaishnava yajnas are going on every day in the northeast
corner (most auspicious) of our preaching camp. Senior devotees are giving
lectures to the crowds in our pandal every afternoon. Hundreds of pilgrims join
our Gaura aratik every evening. And this evening Saci Devi from Bombay,
disciple of Sachinandan Swami, is serenading the crowd that has packed into our
pandal to hear her sweet voice.
We have to thank Co-ordinators Sanaka Santana and Sarvabhauma Prabhus for their
tireless effort to make our preaching successful. His Holiness Radharaman
Maharaja has also been here from the beginning as our resident sannyasi, going
on Harer Nama every day.
The camera batteries of our photographer have gone dead so we’ll have to send
photos later.
The last Shahi Snana is there on Vasanta Panchami on 23rd January. So please
come enjoy the ecstasy of distributing the nectar of the Holy Names. I’m even
surprised that the weather is not so cold, it was really cold in Vrindavan.
In service of Srimati Vrinda Devi,
Deena Bandhu dasa
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